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Ama Dablam Expedition 2016 and 2017

  • Overview
  • Itinerary
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Trip Info

  • One of the prettiest mountains on earth at an altitude of 6,856m/22,494ft
  • 30 days full mountaineering expedition including sightseeing tours to World Heritage Sites in Kathmandu.
  • One of the best view point in the Himalayas with superb views of five above 8,000m mountains including the Everest
  • Multi-camp (3 camps normally) expedition led and supported by highly experienced mountaineers, guides, and crew members
  • Mixed route with ice, snow, and rock climbing around the glacier with fixed ropes and anchors
  • Expedition includes a few days of trek into the scenic Khumbu valley with magnificent Sherpa culture

Popularly known as the 'Matterhorn of the Himalaya', the overwhelming ice-coated granite pyramid of Ama Dablam dominates the sky above the trekker's trail to the Everest Base Camp. The mountain derives its name from the glacier lying on its Southwest face. The glacier looks like a jewel box hanging on the neck of the mountain, hence the name Ama Dablam, literally meaning 'The Mother's Jewel Box'. Interestingly, when a team led by Edmund Hillary scaled the mountain for the first time, Nepal's King nearly imprisoned Hillary for climbing the sacred Ama Dablam without permission.

The standard ascent to Ama Dablam is made via the South-Western Ridge, the same route followed by Ward (UK), Bishop (USA) and Gill (NZ) in the first ascent of the mountain in 1961. The route offers varied and sustained climb with reasonable level of difficulty. Three high camps are set up at strategic points.

Day 01: Arrival day in Kathmandu

After your arrival in the afternoon, you will be taken to the Shanker Hotel for relax and refreshment. Hotel Shanker is a 4 star hotel just a 10 minute walk from the Thamel centre.

Day 02: Kathmandu Sightseeing and Preparation

Take rest, familiarize, and make a sightseeing tour to Kathmandu World Heritage Sites. The day will also be for finalizing official procedure and other necessary arrangements. You will be also briefed on the nature of expedition, equipments and team composition. You can also make your last minute buying of personal items as you will be flying to the Himalayas tomorrow.

Day 03: Fly to Lukla & Trek to Phakding- 9,184 ft (2,800 m)

Fly to Lukla of Everest region. The spectacular mountain flight takes approximately 30 minutes from Kathmandu. Witness the fabulous views of the high Himalayan peaks such as, Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and scores of other trekking peaks. After making necessary arrangement of porters and yaks, trek to Phakding. Overnight stay at Phakding.

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar

The trek begins early morning along the steep hill to Namche Bazar. Namche, at altitude 11,300 ft (3,445 m), is the largest Sherpa town with vibrant Himalayan culture. Two consecutive nights will be spent at Namche to acclimatize with the high altitude.

Day 05: Rest & Acclimatization at Namche Bazaar

Day for rest and acclimatization at Namche Bazar. Also an opportunity to discover the area and familiarize with the Sherpa culture.

Day 06: Trek to Deboche

Trek further along the Everest route. Pass by several settlements and cross the Dhudh Koshi River. Along the way, witness the magnificent views of the high peaks including Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. After making a steep climb arrives the Buddhist monastery of Thyangboche. Spend some time at the monastery and have a look around the place. Then decend to the village of Deboche. Stay overnight in Deboche.

Day 07: Trek to Pheriche (4,300m)

Hike to the village of Pangboche (4,000m/13,120ft). Continuing the trail further up, an overnight stay at Pheriche.

Day 08: Acclimatisation above Pheriche

Another day for acclimatization. The terrain is most suitable for higher climbing conditioning. Walk up a slope overlooking the high Himalayan valleys. A briefing on altitude in the afternoon.

Day 09: Move to Base Camp 4570m/15000ft

Trek back to Pangboche and cross the Dudh Kosi River. Climb up the trail which takes to the Ama Dablam Base Camp. The Base Camp lies at an altitude of 15,000ft (4,570m). Spend the day at the Base Camp for acclimatization and further planning.

Day 10-25: Ascending and Descending of Ama Dablam Top 6856m/22488ft

Based on their previous Actual Adventures Expedition experience, the expedition leader with other crew members make the planning and other necessary ground work for the ascent. A few days may be spent on the Base Camp for organizing food, acclimatization, and practicing rope and other mountain climbing skills.

A typical strategy would look like what follows:

After getting established on the Base Camp, move further up to Camp 1 at 5,700m (17,400 feet) along the standard route. Generally, one night is spent at camp 1for acclimatization and then returning to the Base Camp for the final preparation to scale the summit. There are three camps above the base camp before reaching the summit. The ascent from Base Camp to camp 1 is technically challenging. From Camp 1, follow existing fixed lines. Establish new ropes wherever necessary both for ascent and descent. The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is mostly ice and mixed-climbing. The climb from Camp 3 to the summit is relatively less technical. By the Day 26, scale the peak before getting back to the Base Camp.

Day 26-27: Trek to Lukla

Trek back to Thyangboche, Namche Bazaar and Phakding finally arriving at Lukla.

Day 28: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu

Day 29: at leisure in Kathmandu

Also a reserve day to accommodate possible delay in Lukla to Kathmandu flight. If the flight is as scheduled, spend the day enjoying Kathmandu's delights.

Day 30: Depart Kathmandu

Concluding day of Ama Dablam Expedition. We transfer you to airport for your journey ahead.

What is included:

  • All airport/hotel transfers
  • Four nights in 4-star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
  • Round trip flight Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu with 30KG cargo per climber
  • All trekking and Ama Dablam climbing permit fees
  • Liaison officer and all his expenses
  • Experienced climbing Sherpa (s) for the group
  • Trekking and teahouse arrangements to/from Ama Dablam Base Camp and full board basis at Base Camp
  • Food and fuel above Ama Dablam Base Camp
  • All group camping  equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, table, chair and  kitchen utensils etc
  • Single tent for use at the  Base Camp (with foam mattress provided)
  • Base Camp  Sherpa (s)  and Cook crew
  • Insurance for all Nepalese staffs
  • Use of group gear and supplies: rope, ice screws, rock, and snow anchor protection etc
  • Walkie-talkie radios, satellite telephone, etc.
  • Solar charging at Base Camp
  • Necessary Porter or Yaks support from Lukla to and from Base Camp
  • Emergency equipment like medical oxygen, Gamow bag, base camp medical kit, high-altitude medical kits etc
  • High-altitude camp equipment and supplies, and Sherpa support on summit day
  • Climbing Sherpa will establish camps, carry group equipment (including sleeping bags and pads), establish the route, etc
  • Porterage of group equipment to Advance Base Camp and Camp 1
  • Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu
  • All government taxes and agency service charge

What is not included:

  • Personal climbing clothes and equipment
  • International roundtrip airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu(and also in the case of early return from mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain(due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Excess baggage charges if you have more than 30KG luggage
  • Nepal Visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and passport photographs)
  • Tips for Climbing Guides and other staffs
  • Climbing Sherpa summit bonus
  • Personal communications (Satellite phone, phone, fax, email)
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, bottle water, shower, heater, etc.)
  • Personal Climbing Sherpa (must be arranged before the expedition)
  • Porterage of personal equipment to beyond Base Camp
  • Nepal Custom Duties
  • Personal travel /medical/cancellation/rescue insurance
  • Any rescue costs or costs of early departure from the expedition
  • Helicopter or charter flight

Route Map:

Mount Amadablam Expedition Peak

October, 2017

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