Annapurna IV Expedition
Overview
Annapurna IV, located in the Annapurna mountain range of Nepal, is one of the classic peaks for high-altitude climbing enthusiasts. Standing at an elevation of 7,525 meters (24,688 feet), it offers an exhilarating challenge and breathtaking views of the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges. This expedition is ideal for climbers with experience in technical climbing and previous high-altitude expeditions. The climb involves sections of steep ice and rock, demanding good physical fitness, acclimatization, and technical skills. Annapurna IV is popular due to its accessibility and comparatively lower objective hazards compared to some of Nepal's other major peaks.
Expedition Highlights
- Climb one of the prominent 7000m peaks in the Annapurna range.
- Traverse diverse terrains: glaciers, ridges, and steep snowfields.
- Experience panoramic views of Annapurna II, Annapurna III, Gangapurna, and the Lamjung Himal.
- Opportunity for climbers to test their technical climbing skills and high-altitude endurance.
Duration: Approximately 25–30 days
Day-by-day itinerary
Day1 International flight
International flight
Day2 Arrive in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel for expedition briefing.
Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel. After settling in, meet with the expedition team for a briefing on logistics, safety, and the overall climbing plan. Prepare equipment and make any last-minute purchases. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Day3 Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar (760m)
Drive through scenic landscapes, villages, and terraced fields to Besisahar, the starting point of the trek. Overnight in Besisahar.
Day4 Drive to Chame (2,670m)
A rugged drive from Besisahar to Chame. The journey offers beautiful views of waterfalls, lush forests, and glimpses of the Annapurna range. Overnight in Chame.
Day5 Trek from Chame to Pisang (3,300m)
Start trekking towards Pisang, passing through forests of pine and rhododendron. This is an acclimatization trek, allowing the body to adjust to the altitude. Overnight in Pisang.
Day6 Trek from Pisang to Yak Kharka (3,700m)
Continue trekking with increasing elevation, reaching Yak Kharka. The landscape transitions into alpine terrain. Overnight in Yak Kharka.
Day7 Acclimatization Day in Yak Kharka
Spend the day acclimatizing and resting in Yak Kharka. Explore the surrounding areas with short hikes, preparing the body for higher altitudes. Overnight in Yak Kharka.
Day8 Trek from Yak Kharka to Annapurna IV Base Camp (4,800m)
Begin the trek to Annapurna IV Base Camp. Set up a base camp for acclimatization and preparation for higher camps. Overnight at Base Camp.
Day22 Descend from Base Camp to Yak Kharka
After a successful summit and dismantling the base camp, begin the descent to Yak Kharka. Overnight in Yak Kharka.
Day23 Trek from Yak Kharka to Pisang
Continue descending through alpine terrain back to Pisang, retracing the trek. Overnight in Pisang.
Day24 Trek from Pisang to Chame
Trek back to Chame, completing the trek's loop. Overnight in Chame.
Day25 Drive from Chame to Besisahar, and then to Kathmandu
Drive back to Besisahar and then transfer to Kathmandu. Check in to the hotel and relax. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Day26 Leisure Day in Kathmandu
Enjoy a rest day in Kathmandu. You can visit cultural sites, explore markets, or celebrate with the team. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Day27 Final Departure
Transfer to Tribhuvan International Airport for the final departure, marking the end of the Annapurna IV Expedition.
Day921 Climbing Period from Base Camp to Summit (7,525m)
This period is dedicated to setting up higher camps and acclimatizing, with Camp I at around 5,800 meters, Camp II at approximately 6,400 meters, and Camp III at around 6,800 meters. The route consists of steep snow slopes, ice walls, and mixed climbing sections. Proper acclimatization, rope fixing, and rotation of higher camps will be essential. On a favorable weather window, attempt the summit of Annapurna IV, enjoying panoramic views before descending.
FAQs
What prior experience is required for climbing Annapurna IV?
Annapurna IV is a technical 7000m peak, and climbers should have previous experience in high-altitude mountaineering, ideally having summited peaks over 6000m. Technical skills in ice and rock climbing are essential, as the route includes challenging sections with steep snow, ice walls, and mixed terrains. Good physical fitness and endurance for sustained climbs are also necessary.
When is the best time to climb Annapurna IV?
The best climbing seasons for Annapurna IV are in spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). These months offer stable weather, clearer skies, and milder temperatures, making conditions safer and more predictable for climbing. Monsoon season (June-August) is typically avoided due to heavy rain and landslides, while winter (November-February) is colder and more challenging due to snow and extreme winds.
How long does the entire expedition take?
The Annapurna IV expedition usually takes around 25–30 days from arrival in Kathmandu to departure. This includes time for acclimatization, setting up base and high camps, and waiting for a favorable weather window for the summit attempt. The actual climbing period from base camp to the summit and back generally takes about 12–15 days.
What permits are required for the expedition?
Climbers need several permits for the Annapurna IV Expedition, including a climbing permit issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), an Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) permit, and a TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) card. These permits are arranged through the expedition operator, and fees vary depending on the season and the number of climbers in the group.
What kind of support team is needed for the expedition?
The support team typically includes experienced climbing guides, porters, cooks, and base camp staff. Sherpas often play a critical role in helping with route preparation, fixing ropes, and carrying supplies to higher camps. Having an experienced support team is essential for safety, logistical support, and efficient camp management throughout the expedition.
