Broad Peak Expedition

Broad Peak rises above Concordia, the “throne room of the mountain gods,” within sight of K2, Gasherbrum IV and the Trango Towers. Its long, broad summit ridge, more than 1.5 km of it above 8,000 m, gives the mountain its name.

On 9 June 1957 Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made the first ascent. They climbed alpine style, with no supplementary oxygen and no high-altitude porters, which was a landmark in Himalayan mountaineering.

Today Broad Peak is a natural next step for climbers who have already summited a 7,000 m peak or an easier 8,000 m peak such as Manaslu or Cho Oyu. It is less technical than K2 but still a serious objective. The summit day is long and exposed, and the route crosses avalanche-prone ground. The approach is one of the great trekking journeys of the world: eight days up the Baltoro Glacier past some of the most dramatic granite spires on Earth.

Climb the 12th-highest mountain on Earth, in the heart of the Karakoram

Trip facts

• Duration: 47 days (about 27 days set aside for the climb)
• Summit: Broad Peak, 8,051 m
• Country / region: Pakistan, Gilgit-Baltistan, Karakoram (Baltoro Glacier)
• Grade: Extreme. Technical high-altitude mountaineering.
• Season: Mid-June to early August
• Base camp: Godwin-Austen Glacier, about 4,850 m
• Route: West Spur (normal route)
• Group size: 2–10 climbers
• Start / finish: Islamabad

Highlights

• Summit an 8,000 m peak in the Karakoram, home of four of the world’s fourteen 8,000-ers
• Trek the full Baltoro Glacier to Concordia, with K2 (8,611 m) in view
• Base camp shared with K2 and Broad Peak teams on the Godwin-Austen Glacier
• Pass the Trango Towers, Masherbrum, Gasherbrum IV and Mitre Peak
• Experience Balti culture in Skardu and Askole
• Experienced high-altitude guides, fixed ropes and full camp support

Who is this expedition for?

This expedition is for experienced mountaineers only. You should have:

• At least one summit above 7,000 m, ideally an 8,000 m peak (Manaslu, Cho Oyu or similar)
• Confident use of crampons, ice axe, fixed lines, jumar, rappel and self-arrest
• Proven ability to perform well at altitude for long periods
• Excellent fitness, able to manage a 12–16 hour summit day
• A medical certificate of fitness for high-altitude climbing

Not sure you’re ready? Ask us about a stepping-stone peak in Nepal first, such as Mera Peak, Island Peak or Manaslu.

The route: West Spur (normal route)

An important note on the summit: Many climbers have stopped at the fore-summit (Rocky Summit) believing it to be the top. The true summit lies along the ridge beyond it, usually another 1–2 hours away. Our guides go all the way to the main summit and set clear turnaround times.

Oxygen: Many climbers attempt Broad Peak without supplementary oxygen. Bottled oxygen and a mask set can be arranged on request, and we strongly recommend at least an emergency supply.